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smoke it up with metallic

With this application technique, you will be able to create a sexy, smoky eye. Even though this is definitely a dramatic look, you control just how dramatic it is by choosing how dark your eyeshadow shades will be. You can use lighter shades and create a subtle effect, or choose darker shades for maximum drama. The trick to making them look NOW and on trend is that it has to be metallic. Remember to have fun and experiment. This look works fabulously with every eye shape except deep-set.

Application:

       Highlight shade: Using a matte shade so that you only see the purple, take brush #10 and apply a soft cream (sweet cream for ivory/ beige silky caramel for bronze/ ebony) to the brow bone only.

       Midtone shade: Using brush #27 take a matte midtone (hazelnut for ivory/ beige and cinnabar for bronze/ ebony) and start at the base of your upper lashline and bring the color up and over your entire lid Ė all the way up to your brow bone. Also take brush #13 and brush it along the lower lashline: this will help to create definition and help create blend later when adding contour shade.

       Eyeliner: Take a brown eye pencil (deep brown or bronze) and line your top and bottom lashline, now take brush #18 and a black eyeshadow (cinnabar), lay the brush directly along your upper lid line and pull up. This is the reason for the length and shape of this brush; it is perfect for creating smoky liner.

       Contour shade: Again, using brush #27 take a shimmering brown (golden olive, vintage gold, amber blaze or chocolate kiss the darker the shade the more dramatic it will be) start at the base of your lashline and layer the color over your midtone all the way across your lid and up into the crease. Now using brush #13 sweep the contour color underneath the lower lashline as well. Youíll create a light-to-dark effect with the three eyeshadows, with the darkest shade applied closest to the lashline and fading as you go toward the brow.

       To make this look the most now and modern; take a concealer pencil (ultra light everything pencil) and line the inside wet tissue of the eye. This will open the eye up and create a cool modern effect!

With the smoky eye look, of course your eyes are the absolute focus. Soft, subtly glowing cheeks would look best. You can use color--just make sure it is a soft, sheer color so that it is not too intense for the eyes. Using brush #60 first take a bronze and bronze your cheeks, then take a neutral sheer blush, for ivory/ beige a shimmering peach (shy blush) for bronze/ ebony a shimmering copper (golden copper) and apply it to the apples of your cheek. This creates a beautiful soft glow. If you choose deep, rich eye shadow colors, make sure you wear a very soft, subtle lip color. You never want both your eyes and lips to be dark at the same time! Your lips should be as subtle as possible; close to nude would be best. You are going to want to use brush #80 or #81 to apply your lip color, because we are not going to use lip liner in order to create the most subtle lip possible, for ivory/ beige a shimmering nude (sweet nectar) for bronze/ ebony a shimmering nude (amber glow). Now top your lip off with the perfect shine to pull it all together, for ivory/ beige a shimmering peach (gold rush) for bronze/ ebony a shimmering bronze (beach bronze). Do not forget if you apply lip gloss with a brush it will always look much shinier. 

 


lip service

Lips are in! A bold lip is totally the look for the season. But pink is the shade of choice! Not only is this look incredibly beautiful and on trend, but this technique will keep your lips looking great all day no matter what you do! One of the key aspects of this look is when wearing a bright intense lip you need a softer eye look. Letís start with the softer eye look first.

Eye application:

       Highlight shade: Using a shimmer shade for adding glow, take brush #10 and apply a shimmering flesh (honey spice) to the brow bone and the lid.

       Midtone shade: Using a matte shadow to make it look ultra natural, take brush #29 and a neutral brown (hazelnut for ivory/ beige and cinnabar for bronze/ ebony). Starting in the crease, apply your midtone color from the outer to the inner corner of the eye.

       One important aspect to make this look more current you want to keep lower lashline free of all color! Clean, clean, clean.

       Eyeliner: Start by taking a dark brown (deep brown) eyeliner pencil and line the upper lashline. Remember to keep the color as close to the lashline as possible. Make sure the line increases from thin to thick as you go toward the outer corner. Next using a dark brown shadow (cinnabar or espresso) and brush #18, now go over your pencil and fine-tune it, making it the perfect shape and smudging it to soften the line. The shape of the brush makes it so easy; just lay it along the line and work it back and forth to smudge.

       Now take brush #14 and your highlight shadow and highlight the inside corner underneath the lower lashline (wrap the color around the inside corner of the eye) for added sparkle.

 

Lip application:

 

       Line the outer edges of the lips with a deep berry lip liner (plum), then fill the lip in, all except the very center area of the lip, with liner. I find that using a deeper liner grounds the color and the lips. Now go over the liner you just applied with brush #80 or #81 to blend (with precision). This is the first line of defense in getting your lip color to last. Lip liner has a dryer texture than lipstick, so it lasts longer.

       Next using brush #80 or #81 (which is so important in perfecting this look); apply a bright, fabulous pink lipstick (hibiscus). Then, take a tissue and gently blot your lips. This will remove the moisture from this layer yet leave you with a deposit of pigment. Next, reapply your lipstick, this time do not blot. Layering color like this will give you double the pigment deposit, thus increasing how long the color will wear.

       Finish with a shimmering gold lip gloss (gold rush) for the perfect shine and a hint of warmth. Shiny lips are always sexy (a must). Do not forget to use a brush to apply your gloss, whenever you apply gloss with a brush it will always look shinier.

With this look; a softer cheek works best. Try skipping color. Just use bronzer for a bit of definition.

 


bronzed goddess

On 70% of the runways this fall the look was a very natural monochromatic face! What makes this face so great is it is super fast and easy to do, with very few color products needed. Just bronzer, eyeliner, mascara and lip color. Because everything is so monochromatic have fun with a bright colorful eyeliner. Now go forward and glow.

Application:

       Midtone shade: Using brush #29 take your bronzer, starting from the outside corner of the crease, sweep the color across to the inside corner of your eye. Also using brush #13 sweep it along the lower lashline, once again starting from the outside corner and brushing toward the inside so that the most intense color is at the outside fading as you move to the inside corner. This will help you create definition. Keep in mind this is the only shade you are using so apply liberally for a great bronzed effect.

       Eyeliner: Now line your eye along top and bottom lashline with a fun colorful eyeliner for a fun pop of color. After applying the liner take brush #40 and smudge the line.

       Using brush #60 take your bronzer and apply it to your cheeks. Make sure and bring some up on your temples and brush a bit on your jaw bone, this will really create a bronzed goddess glow.

       Now for a beautiful subtle lip, start by using a neutral shade of lip liner (for ivory/ beige neutral for bronze/ ebony chocolate), using brush #80 or #81 blend you lip liner toward center of mouth. To create a soft touch of color use a beautiful lipstick with just a hint of hue (for ivory/ beige apricot glaze or if you want a really nude lip tanned for bronze/ ebony gingerbread or downtown brown), apply your color with a brush for precision. Do not forget the shine, a hint of gloss for a glowing finish (for ivory/ beige melon sorbet and bronze/ ebony beach bronze). Do not forget if you apply it with a brush it will give you more shine.

This look is the ultimate in modern and fresh this season. Natural but polished and finished.